by Joseph Richard Francis
written by Joseph Richard Francis Published: Updated:
Pavones surf is one of the planet’s most legendary lefts. Long, curling rides make it a place of pilgrimage for goofies. We’ve got the lowdown on the best seasons and the best surf stays.
An introduction to Pavones surf
Pavones is one of the planet’s most legendary lefts. When the south swells roll up through Central America between April and October, sets bend and curl into this headland and black-sand beach. They form seemingly endless shoulders that invite you to sit in the pocket from beginning to end, over what can add up to nearly a kilometer of uninterrupted surf. They say it’s second only to Chicama in length, so is a bit of a pilgrimage spot for goofies the world over.
Pavones can vary between glassy, cruisy longboard conditions and head-high walls that mimic Ulus, with swells ranging from 2-12 foot throughout the various seasons. Winter tends to be better if you like it mellow. Summer has the larger sets and the better conditions for intermediates and advanced surfers. Also be prepared for some long sections where not much happens – Pavones is a fickle beast that needs good angles and plenty of power to show its best side.
As far as Pavones the town goes – this most certainly is not Tamarindo. Repeat: It is not Tamarindo. This one is but a series of jungle hotels and casual bars that strings along a very remote bend in the shoreline of southern Costa Rica. It’s closer to the Nica border than it is to San Jose and out beyond even the remote Osa Peninsula. Yes, it’s a trek to reach but the reward might just be the longest left ride of your whole life.
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This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing in Costa Rica
Pavones surf at a glance
The good…
- One of the best lefts in the world
- Long rides
- Glassy waves
The bad…
- Hard to reach
- It doesn’t always work
What’s in this guide to Pavones surf?
Where is Pavones?
Pavones is a part of the Puntarenas province, which stretches up much of the Costa Rican Pacific coastline from the border with Nica all the way to the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula. This is just about as far south as it’s possible to go in the country, though.
If you walked south through the jungles for just 7 miles you’d find yourself at the international border with Nicaragua. The surf in Pavones all happens on a north-facing coast, which fringes the entranceway to the Golfo Dulce and gets loads of swell during the summer months when the waves come from the south.
How to get to Pavones?
This is the hard bit.
Pavones is so far south in Costa Rica that it can be a task to do overland travel from either of the two major international airports in Liberia or San Jose. Your best bet is to get an internal flight to Golfito Airport in southern Puntarenas and then drive the 1.5 hours that’s left from there, or get a private transfer.
It is possible to take buses from San Jose. Your first leg will be an eight-hour ride from the city to Golfito and then a change to the local bus that runs daily from Golfito to Pavones, taking 2-3 hours. It’s cheap but it’s a MEGA journey. TBH, if you are going overland then your own car hire from San Jose is a better choice, with planned stopovers in other Costa Rican surf towns on the way.
Better yet, fly to Golfito and rent from there. Cars are available and the offer isn’t bad – check RentalCars and try to book early because the collection of vehicles isn’t as big as in major airports.
Pavones surf spots
There’s no doubt what’s the main wave in Pavones: That long, leg-burning left hander that curves into the mouth of the Golfo Dulce. But there are also a few more spots than that in the surrounding region. Let’s take a look…
Osa Peninsula
The Osa Peninsula has recently been linked up to the main highways of Costa Rica with a fancy new asphalt road. That’s paved the way for more people to come, but for now at least it remains a bit of a frontier, famed for its sloth-filled national parks and migrating whales. There are three or four epic surf spots dotting the coast, along with a few others of varying quality. The finest line the bluffs of Cabo Matapalo, offering glassy right shoulders over stone reefs, all accessed by luxury eco lodges.
Pavones
This is the money wave of Pavones. Known as Pavon or Pavones Point, it’s up there with Chicama and Skeleton Bay among the longest lefts planet Earth can muster. You’re looking at rides well in excess of 1,000 meters on the best days, and it’s pure, unadulterated down-the-line-stuff for the most part.
The take-off zone is just south of the main rivermouth of the Rio Claro. You can walk there straight around the headland over black-sand beach and join the lineup less than 100 meters from the shore, no duck diving needed. Keep the hair dry.
The drop takes you into a first section that needs to bend a little to beat the edge of the coastline as it curves to face north. This is basically the only open shoulder face you’ll get, inviting perhaps two or three turns before the wave goes ruler straight and points northwest into Pavones Bay. This is where the legend is made. Find the pocket and straighten up to score long sections that can either be hollow or cruisy depending on swell size. The whole thing finishes as the wave face steepens and starts to loose shape well within the beach, sometimes literally steps from the black sand.
Pavones gets busy. It’s an epic wave. But the vibe is generally good because this part of Costa Rica breeds a certain camaraderie thanks to how remote it is. As we’ve already mentioned the point break is a touch fickle because it’s not that well exposed. It doesn’t perform with anywhere near the same consistency as the Costa Rican beach breaks that make the headlines further north. The best days are summer SW pulses with 5-8 foot and long periods over 12 seconds. E wind is offshore.
Punta Blanco
One of the last breaks in Costa Rica before Nicaragua takes over, Punta Blanco is a beginner-friendly run of cobblestone and black sand that loves direct W swell and even wintertime NW swells. It’s not the frothing down-the-line leg beater that you get in Pavones point but does help to make the region a good place for multi-level groups, with experts hitting the long lefts and beginners coming to this consistent stretch of beach.
Surf camps in Pavones
There’s not the same selection of surf camps in Pavones as in other major surf towns in Costa Rica. This place really is a speciality wave for hunters of long, performance lefts. Plus, it’s quite far away. But there are camp options, with one in particular standing out from the crowd…
- Mokum Surf Club – These guys run a very highly rated and curated surf packages several times per year out of an eco lodge in the hills of Punta Banco near Pavones. Of course, you’ll surf the epic left but also get to taste a whole range of other breaks in the area, both mellow and more challenging. The package also includes a boat trip to Matapalo on the Osa Peninsula (an amazing, untouched region) and a walk though protected turtle nesting grounds.
Hotels in Pavones
There’s a growing clutch of accommodation down in Pavones but the selection remains charmingly rustic and eco-friendly. Check it out…
Tiskita Jungle Lodge
The Tiskita Jungle Lodge offers that quintessential Costa Rica vibe. It’s tucked into the coast jungles just south of Pavones Point, with breezy rooms that have balconies that welcome howler monkeys and parakeets. A veggie-friendly breakfast is served every day and there’s a stunning splash pool in the garden for post-surf chills.
Hotel Swell Pavones
Just as its name implies, Hotel Swell Pavones is right on the swell. The main point is something like 60m from the door of the property, making it one of the closest accommodation options in the whole town. It’s basic but comfy and clean and shouldn’t break the bank. We’ve heard of many a happy surfer who’s blazed through and stayed at this one.
Pavones Point
There’s nothing better for groups or families heading to hit the Pavones surf than the whole house at Pavones Point. It’s a luxury pad with a big kitchen, multiple bedrooms, and lush tropical gardens, all literally steps from the main take-off zone.
Step-by-step guide to planning your Pavones surf trip right now
Step one: Book flights to the Pavones surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!
Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.
Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.
Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.
Step five: Enjoy!
For paying for stuff when you’re traveling – Get a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.
When to surf in Pavones?
Come to Pavones between May and October to catch the best S swells and longest left lines – maybe in the world!
The main season for surfing in Pavones is the summer months. That’s when the reliable S and SW swells come through and can be big enough to push into the Golfo Dulce, passing the Pavones Point as they go. If you want to see this epic left working at its very best, then there’s no doubt that you should come between May and October.
The town won’t be anywhere near as busy in the winter months and the swell will be smaller, but this is Costa Rica and that means consistency aplenty, especially if you move to Punta Blanco and aren’t too fussed on riding Pavones Point’s longest shoulders.
We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!
Joseph Richard Francis
Joe “Rich” Francis has been surfing for the best part of 15 years. He’s nowhere near as good as he should be at the end of all that, but hey ho. Born and bred in Swansea, South Wales (the current base of The Surf Atlas), Joe is a seasoned adventure travel writer with completed publications in the surf-travel and adventure-travel sphere for major publications like Lonely Planet and The Culture Trip.
